Imagine a sunny afternoon in beautiful Zurich, Switzerland when after a nice stroll on the famous Bahnhofstrasse you have turned into Sihlstrasse. You are hungry but are struggling to decide between Zurcher geschnetzeltes, a creamy veal and mushroom ragout or a special tartar made with okra, egg plant, and spices (or all the other over 100 hot and cold specialities with influences from all over the world). You are at Haus Hiltl, the main branch of the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant established in1898. 

The story begins with the son of a small farmer in Bavaria, Ambrosius Hiltl, a lover of nature, travel, and beautiful things. A journeyman tailor he eventually settled in Zurich at the age of 20. He started working at “Vegetarian’s home and abstinence cafe” soon taking over and turning it into Haus Hiltl. In 1901 Ambrosius was diagnosed with rheumatism which carried a fatal prognosis unless he gave up meat and drastically changed his diet. 120 years ago the cultural and culinary climate was quite adverse to those trying to live healthier lives through a vegetarian diet. Through the influence of people like Dr. Maximilian Bircher-Benner (the man behind the bircher muesli) and Ambrosius Hiltl this environment started its shift towards a more healthy diet and Ambrosius lived to see its gradual progress.

Hiltl has been expertly and innovatively leading the way through 4 generations culminating with the current leadership of Mr. Rolf Hiltl. I recently had the pleasure of asking Mr. Milo Stegmann from team Hiltl about the connecting philosophy binding these 4 generations (read the complete interview) He states:“The unifying element of the four Hiltl generations is the passion for healthy indulgence, vegetarian and vegan nutrition and the spirit of innovation. Each of the four generations tried to be ahead of the time.” Just a few examples are being the first restaurant with an all electric kitchen in 1931, Margarith Hiltl’s visit to India and opening the gateway of that cuisine to Switzerland in 1951 and establishment of Hiltl Vegimetzg (the first vegetarian butchery in Switzerland) in 2013.

Through the leadership of Mr. Rolf Hiltl the institution continues to grow and evolve. They operate 8 restaurants, the Hiltl vegimetzg, and the Hiltl academy(“competence center for healthy indulgence”) which regularly holds cooking classes for professional and amateurs alike. They are family friendly (e.g. family cooking classes and paint stations for kids) and are constantly implementing ecological practices (no plastic straws, PLA cups, reusable bento bowls etc). Hiltl has also formed strategic partnerships with brands such as Swiss International Airlines and Tibits (a vegetarian fast food chain).

2020 was a devastating year for all the citizens of the world specially those in the restaurant industry. Milo Stegmann admits: “with its long corporate history, Hiltl has already survived two world wars but Covid-19 will probably be the event that has had the greatest impact on the company so far.” Like always they have pivoted through innovation and creativity. Today the landscape is no longer the hostile one Ambrosius Hiltl faced but one in which people are consciously looking to be healthier and is marked with the presence of much more competition. 80% of visitors to Hiltl are not strictly vegetarian or vegan but rather like Rolf Hiltl “flexitarians”(also eat meat and other animal products in moderation). Rolf Hiltl is trying to combine healthy eating with enjoyment (“healthy pleasure”).

Looking to the future, Milo Stegmann says: “as a traditional company, we always have to stay on the ball, recognize trends early or create them ourselves. For example, we have our own recipe development department, which looks at new innovative dishes and drinks every day in order to expand and adapt our range.” The continuous rich journey of such grand institutions run by generations of the same family is fascinating. I look forward to watching this story unfold in the future. For now let us meet at the counter of Hiltl Vegimetzg to pickup some tofu, tempeh, paneer or soy sausages.